Report 2, Circling North America by Car: Western Canada
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Sent on May 28, 2003 from Dawson Creek. US$= Canadian$1.5 or Canadian$=74 US cents. Gasoline is twice as expensive here, 65-75 Canadian cents per liter for low-grade lead-free. Report: Banff Park (Canadian Rockies), (2.5 hours) NW to Jasper Park (and Glaciers), (4hr) North to Prince George, (4hr) Northeast to Dawson Creek. Total Mileage from Miami so far = 5,500m/9,000km, Dawson Creek marks Alaska Highway Mile = 0, on my way to circling North America. To Mom and sisters, just arrived at Dawson Creek, I am OK. No cell service from here, typing this from the public library. Will also type this report. I have an hour, then get gas and continue to Whitehorst, Yukon. I am 1523 km from Fairbanks, Alaska from the city center here. I will send the next report from Fairbanks, after I decide what to do from there. MUST DO! If you are a traveler, especially living in North America, add Banff National Park to your list of places to see. It is 90km west of Calgary, in the Canadian Rockies. The village and the setting are one of the most beautiful places on earth, including similar Austrian, Swiss, Italian, and/or French settings. You can do this as part of a larger tour that includes the Glacier National Park near the border in Montana, Waterton Glacier Lakes at the border, all just south of Banff and Jasper National Park further north. This is not all. The landscape is full of lakes and other national parks, like Lake Louise which is also a must-see. At Banff, take the Gondola (cable-capsule) to the top of the Sulphur Mountain for views to the heavens. Much more to do all around, including rafting. The road to Jasper village (Rt. 1, then Rt. 93, after Lake Louise) about 3 hours Northwest, is awesome, no less than the Rocky Mount. Nat. Park drive in Colorado, add a dozen of lakes and glaciers. Indeed, you should continue that road (it joins Rt.16; continue on this) say for about another 100 miles further north of Jasper, toward Prince George. If you are interested, let me know. I'll prepare a suggested itinerary for you for as long as you desire, covering whatever states you want. Sent on May 31, 2003 from Fairbanks, Alaska. OK, the last report was from Dawson Creek, mile 0 of Alaskan Highway. I passed thru Watson Lake next, 4-5 hours of driving. The landscape was pretty but nothing exceptional, much like anywhere in wooded USA. At Watson Lake, you enter Yukon. 1. Stone Mountain, Summit and Muncho Lakes. It rained buckets from Watson Lake all the way to Whitehorse, but this was a lucky turn of events. About 150km to Whitehorse, you pass thru an area called Stone Mountain and Summit Lake, then Muncho Lake. Spectacular scenes all around. The rain subsided then and the wonderful scene around me was shrouded in mist and layers of fog, covering a mountain top here, part of a lake there, giving the gorgeous surroundings a dramatic, ethereal and ghostly quality, (I thought) literally out-of-this-world, in the pallid light lingering at 11pm. 2. Kluane National Park. The road to Whitehorse, Yukon is mostly west, passing thru the magnificent Kluane National Park, where you are greeted again by snow-capped Canadian Rockies, continuing like a wall right next to you, accompanied the many lakes and wetlands. At higher altitudes the trees are much smaller, bush-like, giving this mountainous a swamp-like appearance. 3. Roads. The roads are supposedly all paved. However, these are not your regular roads. There is lots of bumping, bouncing, jerking and rocking and rolling as you drive. And in May there is lots of repair going on to fix the damage from the previous winter. So you go thru long stretches of gravel and muddy roads, especially in Canada. In Alaska the roads are better, the asphalt of superior quality. There are no rest areas along the highway as we know them on US interstates. There may be sporadically a cabin or 2 for a restroom. But you pass thru small settlements where you can get gas and some food, probably the way our (now sophisticated) rest areas started in the 1950s. On many stretches, I was the only vehicle going in either direction sometimes for 2 hours, probably also because most sensible people were at hotels at the ungodly late hours I like to drive. 4. Midnight Sun. Already at Banff, lower British Columbia, I noticed that the day gave way grudging to the night. It lingered. By the time I was in Yukon, it was still light at 11pm. When I entered Alaska (clock change to 1 hour earlier from Yukon, so 4 hours earlier than EDT), I could read a newspaper in the still daylight-like conditions at 1am. By 2 am I could still do it but with some strain. I continued driving to Fairbanks all the way to 5 am, just to enjoy this, dim and gray daylight for a full night for the 1st time for me. It is kind of weird to see kids riding bicycle, couples strolling around at 1am . . . 5. Northern Lights. I was told that the Northern Lights are best seen in winter (Feb. best), when it is dark outside, not as well from May to August, when the daylight lingers. I had a glimpse of these lights--have a photo--on the way to Fairbanks, perhaps because the cloud cover provided enough darkness for them to be visible. It is an eerie sight.