Report 4, Circling North America by Car,
Western Canada, USA
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Sent on June 14, 2003 from Los Angeles, CA. North America, Mile = 12,673 / 20,682 km. Taking a break with Mother & Sister, hello from Los Angeles, Calif. Tom in Australia (welcome to USA), and Warren in Canada, I have trip suggestions for you below. 1. Just for curiosity, the 12,673 miles passed thru the following nation-size states: a) Going North: Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia, Pennsylvania, New York, Ontario (Canada). b) Going West: Ontario, New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, North Dakota, Manitoba (Canada), Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, Yukon, Alaska. c) Going South: Alaska, Yukon (Canada), Southeast Alaska, British Columbia (Canada), Washington, Oregon, California. 2. TWO roads in British Columbia nominated as most scenic of North America. Let me briefly describe them: a) 4-Star - Rt. 16 from Prince Rupert to Prince George, British Columbia. After getting off the ferry in Prince Rupert, British Columbia, you are still so far west of the rest of the American continent to the south that you must first go about 300 miles East to reduce your longitude. This is on Rt. 16E, the same road I took North and West from Banff to Jasper to Prince George. The landscape is one of snow-capped mountains, lakes, rivers, meadows, what have you. The 1st half of this stretch to Prince George, about 150 miles, is really gorgeous; the second half is still pretty but not as scenic as the 1st half. b) 5-Star - Rt. 99 (off Rt. 97 South) in British Columbia may be the most scenic 150-mile stretch in North America, or one of the top dozen such long stretches. You enter this road about 20km south of Clinton, off Rt. 97 (the main road south from Prince George) in British Columbia, the last 1/3rd stretch of the distance from prince George to Vancouver. The road starts as a mountain road with sharp curves, pretty but nothing spectacular at first. 15 minutes later it dawns on you that you are in for a treat in the Marble Canyon area dotted with mountains, forests, hills, meadows, lakes, creeks, small logging villages, and finally, yes, a reservoir and a dam at the village of Lilooet, a nugget of a place. The views are gorgeous, then even more so all the way to Whistler. You are in for a surprise in Whistler, for like Banff this is a planned community to attract tourism. Nothing casual here; every building, road, shop is of eye-catching design, fitting well into a larger design. You contemplate if the second 1/3rd of this stretch to the village of Squamish is even prettier, while passing spectacular mountain scenes, creeks, lakes, waterfalls. The awesome part of the road starts after Squamish, when there is a continuous winding drop to the sea level of Vancouver. The drop is for at least 30km or so with unbelievable views of sheer rock cliffs, snow-capped mountains, twists and turns, glimpses of the ocean and the many islands, peninsulas, and the shoreline below. Awesome is the word. c) Vancouver, a world-class city, ditto Victoria on Vancouver Island. In contrast I found Seattle, Washington an ugly city, Portland, Oregon better. More about the route south below. There are several ferry terminals between Vancouver and Vancouver Island. One is right off Rt.99 before Vancouver, another about an hour south of Vancouver, near the airport. These are the ones I used. From Vancouver Island, one terminal is in Sydney, 20km north of Victoria. It serves exclusively the 2nd terminal near the airport on the mainland. Either way, the ferry ride is 1 hour 35 minutes thru very scenic passage dotted with islands, peninsulas, and shorelines. WARREN in CANADA. If you haver not done so, grab your better half, get into your car, tell everyone you'll be away for a few weeks (say 2 or 3), and get on Rt.1 West to Calgary. From there, take Rt. 1W, 93N, 16W to Prince George. From there drop down to Williams Lake by Rt.97; take Rt. 99S to Whistler, have a cup of coffee on me there, continue to Vancouver leaving the Sun on the East (so drive this stretch before noon). The ferry to Vancouver Island comes before the city. Take it to Nanaimo on the island, then decide if you want to go north (220 miles) to Port Mac Neil, and/or one hour south to Victoria, a world-class small city. In Vancouver, be sure the drive the length of Robson Street, where night life blooms, and eat at Cactus Club Cafe at 1136 Robson. For return, drive south to I.5 on the USA side, where it meets Rt.20E. thru the gorgeous Cascade National Park. At Newport (Washington-Idaho border) Rt.20 meets Rt.2E. Take it all the way thru Montana to the Glacier Park, then north thru Waterton Glaciers & Lakes to Banff, then East to home. You will have circled a most scenic part of North America. 3. Drive South in USA. I did not like Seattle, liked Portland much better--try a restaurant at the Bohemian 23rd Ave. The drive south to Eugene, Oregon on I.5 is so so as far as the scenery is concerned. But then you enter the Cascades Range and the road becomes one of the most scenic in USA, all the way south, thru Medford and Ashland, OR (where I stopped to visit with friends), to Redding, California. This part of the landscape qualifies this area as the West Virginia of the West, passing thru the Shasta National Forest. South of Redding , CA, I.5 goes thru the flat and redundant Sacramento then San Joaquin valleys, all the way south to Bakersfield. Then you enter the magnificent California Coast Range and the Sierra Madre Mountains, essentially a landscape of dry (very scenic) hills and canyons, all the way to LA and San Diego and Mexico. 4. My trip continues South. After a brief stop in San Diego, I will enter Mexico at Tijuana and continue to La Paz, thru Baja peninsula. In La Paz I will take the ferry to the mainland Mexico, either to the Copper Canyon--partially navigable by road--or to Mazatlan and continue on the coastal route south to Acapulco and beyond. I have seen Mexico City and its environs on an earlier trip. How I proceed from Acapulco I have not yet decided. (The ferry that I thought of taking from Merida at Yucatan to Tampa, Florida does not operate until November. Since there is no direct road from Guatemala to Belize, I will leave Yucatan and Belize for another trip in November, probably taking my Mother along for a 10 to 15-day tour.) So I may continue to Guatemala, then cut north to Gulf of Mexico and return thru Veracruz and Monterrey to Brownsville, Texas. Then I have about 2,000 more miles home to Miami. TOM in AUSTRALIA. Again, welcome to USA, my regards to Caroline. In Los Angeles you are at the right place for a circle of one of the most scenic regions of the USA, indeed the entire world: the Southwest USA. I know the VERY-rich have their own lifestyle, but you may want to consider the following suggestions for a tour of this area, depending on the length of your stay. California used to be my home state, and I did live in La Jolla (San Diego), Marina del Rey (LA), and in Menlo Park & (center of) San Francisco. a) No tour, just LA. Your daughter will know what to show you, but just in case, ask her to take you to 1) the Venice Boardwalk on a sunny Sunday afternoon. Enjoy the very American beautiful chaos on both sides. 2) Drive the Coastal Highway (at the end of I.10W) in Santa Monica to Malibu and on, also on a weekend. 3) Drive the length of Sunset Blvd. to Westwood (UCLA located here), from there to Beverly Hills, Wilshire Blvd. 4) Santa Monica Pier and Park, Marina del Rey (adjacent to Venice Beach). b) A few days: south to San Diego. Take Rt.405S to I.5S. The first half of this road is thru the congested California traffic and may not impress you much. But it gets progressively better. About 30 miles north of San Diego on I.5, you will see a small sign that says Del Mar Heights. Exit I.5 there and follow the coastal route thru La Jolla to the Pacific Beach section of San Diego. This is a very scenic road. When you come to La Jolla, be sure to see the cove. There is a very nice hotel there, if you want to stay. Park your car and walk the Prospect Street, have seafood lunch at one of the very fine restaurants. Drive along the sea to Seal Rock then Pacific Beach section of San Diego. There are fine restaurants also at the latter, at the cross-section with Garnet Street. Follow the road to Mission Bay. You should take the Harbor Drive to Point Loma. At night either drive to the Old Town or the new Gaslight District for dinner. Come back to LA thru 805N, to I.5 N. c) A week or so. Take Rt.101 south to I.15 in Los Angeles; continue to Las Vegas on I.15E. You should at least spend a night in Las Vegas. Hotel Paris will meet all your expectations at ANY price, as also the Mandalay Bay, Venetian, and Luxor, the latter exquisite yet most economical of the 4. From Las Vegas, take Rt.98W to Death Valley, crossing it to the Sequoia National Park with Giant Trees. You can skip King's Canyon to the north and continue to Yosemite. From there you are close enough to San Francisco for a visit. Be sure to visit the China Town, Presidio, Japanese Gardens. Cross the Golden Gate to the Golden Gate Park on the other side, then continue on the coastal A1 road say for an hour north to enjoy the spectacular scenery of California coastline. Return the same way to SF, take either Rt.101S to LA or the coastal highway thru Monterey. d) 10 to 15 days. Combine all these and add Grand Canyon and Hoover Dam. In this case, do San Diego as above, then take I.8E to Phoenix. There take Rt.17N to Sedona (red rock formations) for one of the most scenic roads in USA. Just before Sedona there will be a small sigh that says Sedona. Take it. Look around or stay there for the night. Next day, take Rt.89N to Flagstaff (very scenic but different), then follow the signs to the Grand Canyon: I.40W to Rt.64 to Rt.180. Do the drive East thru the Grand Canyon on your own--no need for tour--all the way until that route Rt.64 intersects Rt.89 going north at Painted Desert. Return to the village for a helicopter ride that Caroline will love. Spend the night there at one of the fine hotels. In the morn, take i.40W to Kingman, Rt.93N to Las Vegas, thru Lake Mead and the Hoover Dam. (You can take side roads thru Lake Mead; check map.) From Las Vegas proceed as per (c) above. =================================================== Sent on June 30, 2003 from Los Angeles, California. Report: car fixed, 18-day break over, on the road again: LA, stops at Santa Barbara, Palm Springs, Las Vegas (NV), and San Diego. Mexico from Tijuana south thru Baja Peninsula. Los Angeles, also a former hometown (used to be UCLA computer instructor) is large (spread-out) enough to have a few nice spots, inside and at the shore. These should be enjoyed on a weekend when the traffic is less torturous. Santa Monica Pier is worth a visit. And being that close to the Pacific, next you should take the Pacific Coast Highway north thru Malibu and pass the Pepperdine University, then drive back on the same road. On that road, before Santa Monica, where you see the exit to Sunset Boulevard, take it to where you can cut to the (parallel) Hollywood Blvd., which is much less elegant than you would expect, BUT for the few blocks around Mann's Chinese Theater. Walk along the sidewalks and find the stars of your favorite stars. OR, to enjoy the Coast Mountains, continue about 5 miles north of Pepperdine Univ. until you see the Kanan Road to the mountains (right). This is a gorgeous drive. After about 20 minutes (and 3 tunnels) it will connect to Rt. 101 South. Take it for about 30 minutes to where Rt.101S connects to Rt.405 to San Diego (not Sacramento). It is a very nice drop to Sunset Boulevard from there. Follow Sunset east to where you see the entry to Bel Air and the homes of the movie stars, adjacent to the UCLA campus and the quaint Westwood village, with the boundary to the main boulevard in LA, the Wilshire. On a weekend afternoon or evening walk along the Venice Beach; this is a must. Santa Barbara is a rare American city (100,000+ people) that deserves a 10 rating. The city is framed by the Coast Mountains to the east and the Pacific to the West. In between are small individual hills dotted with lavish homes. It is about 2 hours of driving distance north from LA, on Rt.101. The setting is gorgeous, the buildings mostly of Spanish architecture. You should browse the State St. then take the open city bus (25 cents) directly west to the very quaint pier, a 10-min ride. The boardwalk along the bay is one of the most attractive I have seen in USA. The city boasts very strict zoning standards and the most expensive home prices in California, the average being $685,000 or so (as written in the LA Times about a week ago). Palm Springs is seemingly reserved for the very rich and services that please them, the western version of Palm & Miami Beaches in Florida. It is about 4 hours east from LA, off I.10. Snow-capped Sierra Madres are visible from this city-oasis in the desert. The area also has a cluster (of several hundreds) of wind mills. One highlight is the steep cable car to a mountain top with spectacular views. Yes, there are even cool mist-spraying machines along some sidewalks. In Las Vegas a drive thru the Las Vegas Boulevard is a must, for some of the most spectacular modern architecture in the world, theme hotel-casinos, are all there along the boulevard, like the Paris, Venetian, Mandalay Bay, Luxor, Circus Circus, etc. While these hotels collectively make Las Vegas unique, such very elaborate gambling casinos do exist elsewhere, for example the Fantasia resort on the Phuket Isl, Thailand, in the Bahamas, and other places. San Diego is one of the prettiest cities in the USA, and about 30 minutes north of Tijuana and the Mexican border. My former hometown (La Jolla), places to see are many, like the Balboa Park, the Old Town, Gaslight District downtown, the latter 2 ideal places for dinner. If you are coming down on I.5 from Los Angeles, exit at Del Mar Heights, about 20 miles north of San Diego, and do the rest of the distance along the coastal route thru Del Mar, La Jolla, and the Pacific Beach, for one of the most scenic inhabited coastal routes in USA. Fond a parking spot near the Prospect Street in La Jolla and walk that street, also doing down to the Cove for the spectacular rocky shores of La Jolla. There is much more. About 30 minutes north is the Wild Animal Park where you can see many rare species of animals from Africa, etc. in their natural settings, even better than you can driving thru the Kruger National Park in South Africa. Moreover, San Diego zoo is one of the best in the world, if not the best. A drive along the Harbor Drive to Point Loma is a must, as also the drive over the Bay Bridge to the Coronado Island and the 5-star Coronado Hotel there. Walk along the Pacific Beach, Mission Bay, drive to Inner Harbor, take a harbor cruise at night for more ecstasy. There is also a (red) electric train from downtown to the border with Mexico, if you want. A 5 min taxi ride from the border will put you on Av. Rio in downtown Rio, where you can get leather goods, textiles, and bottles of alcoholic drinks for cheap. This area offers also some of the most spectacular desert scenes in Southern California. For example, I.8 East first climbs the coastal Sierra Madres to alpine heights. Near the top there is the exit to the quaint village of Julien. Further up is the exit to Borrego Springs, the endless moonscape-like views of the Mojave Desert from the escarpment there are breathtaking. On top, you pass thru rugged mountains and hills covered by huge round boulders, and start the long steep decline to Ocotillo Springs and the Mojave Desert to the east.